#LOWES FLEEX CAULK FREE#
Surface must be free of grease, oil & dirt.
#LOWES FLEEX CAULK HOW TO#
It works best on medium to rough stucco finishes and can be used on smoother finishes too but an acrylic will do a much better job of concealing the area since it has no aggregate mixed with it.Click here for helpful hints and instructions on how to properly use Flex Paste.ĭIRECTIONS: Protective clothing & eyewear are recommended. Sanded Caulking: ( Link Here) The sanded caulking is only used on finished stucco surfaces and nothing else. Sikaflex and Fortiflash are the two polyurethane caulking products I have had good luck with. You can use it to seal up larger cracks in stucco too but remember that trying to get the caulking to smoothly blend into the existing finish will be a lot more difficult to do compared to using the acrylic caulking. Cleanup is difficult though and requires mineral spirits most of the time.
Polyurethane Caulking: The Polyurethane caulking is best used on the lathing portion of the stucco process and will bond to the stucco paper extremely well. It can also be used for the lathing portion of the stucco process too and bonds pretty well to the black paper used to waterproof the substrate.
#LOWES FLEEX CAULK CRACK#
Here are some links to some of the recommended caulking I use, which can be found nearly anywhere for the most part and should help you find the right caulking a lot easier.Īcrylic Caulking: ( Link Here) Remember, the acrylic caulking is best used for crack repair or any other types of repairs that need to be done on the finished stucco surface, as it blends in easily and cleans up with water. Now it is important to note that the sand is indeed very fine and it is not going to be a perfect match for some of the more coarse finishes without a little work. Sanded Caulking: Sanded caulking is basically an acrylic based caulking that has a fine sand added to it so it matches the finished stucco a little better.The material that makes up the rubberized caulking sticks to the stucco paper very well and is usually used on areas that will see more water than normal. Rubberized Caulking: Rubberized caulking does have its purpose and can come in handy every now and then.Now, a silicone caulking will work and I have seen people use it but it is less effective than a polyurethane and really "sub-par" in comparison. It doesn't stick to materials like a polyurethane will and it will not work well to blend into the stucco finish. Silicone Caulking: Silicone is not really recommended because it is so hard to work with and cleanup is a much harder process.This is not usually recommended by manufacturers (usually voids any warranties made) and you will want to make sure that the two caulking materials will bond to each other. It is sometimes used for larger, deeper cracks as a filler and sealer and then a different caulking is used on top to blend the finish in. The polyurethane also bonds very well to most materials without any adverse effects but is much thicker and harder to work with so it is not recommended to use for blending into the finish. Polyurethane provides a better seal and is more watertight. are better suited with a polyurethane based caulk. Areas like windows, doors, where lath meets wood, etc. A Polyurethane Based Caulking: Polyurethane based caulking is good for sealing up areas on the lath portion of the stucco process.This is the primary caulking that I like to use on hairline stucco cracks. An Acrylic Based Caulking: A caulking with an acrylic base (or acrylic/silicone base) is better suited for applications that are needed on the finish coat because it is easier to work with and blends into the stucco finish easily, using the correct tools and methods.
These both have different characteristics, which makes them suitable for different objectives.
The two main types that are recommended by most people are an acrylic based caulking and a polyurethane based caulking.
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